Kitchen Electrical Work

Kitchen Electrics Done Right

The kitchen is the most electrically demanding room in your home. Between the cooker, oven, hob, dishwasher, washing machine, fridge-freezer, microwave, kettle, toaster, and an ever-growing collection of gadgets, a modern kitchen draws more power than every other room combined. Getting the electrical infrastructure right is critical — both for safety and for having enough circuits and sockets to actually use the space.

All electrical work in a kitchen is Part P notifiable under the Building Regulations. This means it must be carried out by a qualified, registered electrician who can self-certify the work. We design and install kitchen electrical systems for renovations, extensions, and new builds — from a single additional socket to a complete kitchen electrical package.

Dedicated Circuits

Modern kitchens require multiple dedicated circuits — each appliance or group of appliances on its own protected circuit from the consumer unit. This prevents overloading and ensures a fault on one appliance doesn't trip the power to the entire kitchen.

Cooker Circuit

Electric cookers, range cookers, and built-in ovens require a dedicated circuit — typically a 32A radial on 6mm² cable, with a 45A cooker switch (with or without a 13A socket outlet). The circuit must be appropriately rated for the appliance's maximum power consumption, which can range from 2.5kW (single oven) to 15kW (range cooker with multiple ovens).

Hob Circuit

Induction hobs draw significant power — typically 3.7kW to 7.4kW. A high-powered induction hob may require its own dedicated circuit, separate from the oven circuit. Some models require a 32A or even 40A supply. We check the hob specifications before installation and wire the appropriate circuit.

Appliance Circuits

Dishwashers, washing machines, and tumble dryers should ideally be on dedicated radial circuits, each protected by their own MCB at the consumer unit. This is particularly important for appliances that draw high loads during heating cycles. Fridge-freezers benefit from a dedicated circuit so they continue running if another circuit trips.

Kitchen Sockets

Worktop Sockets

Building Regulations recommend sockets at regular intervals along the worktop — typically every 1–1.5 metres. Worktop sockets should be positioned at least 150mm above the work surface and away from hobs and sinks. We install twin sockets with USB-C outlets for maximum convenience.

Island Sockets

Kitchen islands create a wiring challenge — power needs to reach the middle of the room without trailing cables. Options include pop-up sockets that retract flush into the worktop when not in use, flush-mounted sockets recessed into the island's end panel, or floor-mounted socket boxes. Cable routing depends on your floor construction — a concrete slab requires conduit laid before tiling; a timber floor allows cable routing through the void below.

Appliance Connection Points

Built-in appliances (integrated dishwasher, microwave, oven) are typically wired to fused connection units (FCUs) rather than standard plug sockets. FCUs provide a permanent, switched connection point that's neater and safer than a plug behind a built-in unit.

Kitchen Lighting

Good kitchen lighting uses multiple layers:

• Ceiling downlights — even, general illumination across the kitchen. LED downlights at 3000K colour temperature are the standard.
• Under-cabinet LED strips — task lighting for worktops. Essential for food preparation and dramatically more effective than ceiling-only lighting, which casts shadows when you're standing at the worktop.
• Pendant lights — decorative feature lighting over islands and breakfast bars. Usually on a dimmer for ambience.
• Plinth lighting — LED strips along the base of kitchen cabinets for a modern, floating effect.

Kitchen Rewiring

If your kitchen is being fully renovated — new cabinets, new layout, new appliances — it's almost always worth rewiring the entire kitchen circuit at the same time. First-fix wiring (running cables before plastering and fitting cabinets) is significantly cheaper and less disruptive than trying to add circuits once the kitchen is installed. We coordinate with your kitchen fitter to ensure cable positions match the final cabinet and appliance layout.

Costs

• Cooker circuit installation: £200–£400
• Induction hob circuit: £200–£350
• Additional worktop socket: £100–£180
• Island power supply: £250–£500 (depending on floor type)
• Under-cabinet LED lighting: £200–£500
• Full kitchen electrical package: £1,000–£3,000 (first-fix wiring, circuits, sockets, lighting)

Planning a kitchen renovation? Get a free electrical quote early in the process — electrical first-fix needs to happen before your kitchen fitter arrives.